After James Ben Ali Haggin’s purchase of Elmendorf Farm, he began to develop plans for a palatial mansion as a wedding gift to his wife.
In March 1900, the Haggins arrived in Kentucky, from New York, to spend a few weeks planning and reviewing improvements to the farm, including the new main residence. The Haggins temporarily used the old residence on the Old Kenney Place (the Carter-Harrison dwelling). The residence was remodeled and enlarged for their usage.[i]
Henry L. Copeland, of Copeland & Dole, architects, designed the mansion, which was intended to be the Haggin’s summer residence. The mansion was located on a hill, which overlooked North Elkhorn Creek to the north and the stallion barn and training track to the west. Mrs. Haggin named the mansion Green Hills for the view. The mansion was visible for miles around. Copeland stated “the house stands upon an unusually beautiful country . . . a view of three counties from the front door . . . . advantages of the eminence with its commanding outlook.”
The mansion was three stories, with a full basement, built of brick and white marble. The house was 40 by 80 feet, for a total of over 12,000 square feet. A stone balustrade ran around the roofline.
Architectural drawing of Green Hills <Herald>
Four marble steps led up to the colonial portico, covered by a pediment and supported by four stone, Corinthian columns (25 feet in height). A pair of Italian marble lions guarded the front door. The front door was made of wrought iron, with plate glass and opened into the reception hall. On the right side of the hall was the grand staircase, to the second floor. The rear of the reception hall opened into the drawing room. The right side of the first floor contained the library and billiards room, divided by a narrow hallway. The hallway led to the elevator and portico entrance. The left side of the first floor contained the dining room.
The reception hall was finished with a Louis XIV interior, including dark oak wainscoting nine feet high and plaster friezes, in tinted ivory relief with pilasters to the ceiling. The fireplace was richly carved, high buff Caen stone and reached the ceiling. The hall was opened to the ceiling on the third floor. The hall was lighted with a large electric globe, which was adjustable to change the lighting. The second and third floors contained balconies, with wrought iron railings and walls covered with green silk damask. The stairway to the second floor, included wrought iron hand rails, covered in crimson silk damask.
The drawing room was finished in the Louis XV style, with low wainscoting of ivory enamel, woodwork of ivory enamel panels, carved with styles and pilasters, and crimson silk damask. The fireplace mantel was statuary marble. A gold framed mirror over the mantel was imported from Fontainebleau, France. On both sides of the mirror were sconces for electric lamps. The ceiling was finished in ornamental plaster. The windows were covered with French sash, with espagnolettes in gilded bronze.
The dining room was completed in the French Renaissance Style, Circassian walnut woodwork, with a beamed ceiling. The fireplace mantel was of Istrian marble and the floor of oak, with a herringbone pattern,
The library was finished in Italian Renaissance style, with mahogany woodwork. The mantel was black and gold marble, with a black Belgian marble base. Built in bookcases covered two walls. The ceiling was finished in ornamental plaster.
The billiard room was completed with natural oak paneling and a red Indiana limestone mantel.
The original plans called for a palm and smoking room, with a large bay window overlooking the lush fields, on the west side of the mansion. The room was planned to connect with the reception room in the main mansion, by a wrought iron and glass passageway. This room was to balance the house with the portico on the east side. The room was not built.
Along the rear was a wide veranda, which offered a view of North Elkhorn Creek. The house was orientated north to south, to allow the veranda to be shaded from the harsh summer sun during the evening, but receive the direct sun on winter mornings.
The second floor contained the main living and bedrooms. On the left side were five guest bedrooms, with private baths. The Haggin’s private apartment was located in the center right, with two bedrooms, closets and private baths. In addition, on the left, was a maid’s chamber and linen closets. The third floor contained additional guest rooms and four servant rooms, for the housekeeper and maids.
The master bedroom was Louis XV style, finished with an ivory enamel wainscoting and silk damask walls. The mantel was statuary marble. The guest bedrooms were covered with silk wall coverings. Each had a private bathroom, with marble wainscoting and floors.
The basement contained a large kitchen (25 by 40 feet), on the left, finished with white enamel brick. The kitchen was connected to the dining room by a dumbwaiter. Haggin’s famed wine cellar and food storage closet was located in the center. On the right were a large servant’s dining room and four bedrooms for the male servants.
The mansion was surrounded by a lush lawn, enclosed by a stone balustrade. The surrounding acres were landscaped with stone terraces, with imported trees and shrubs planted.
The house feathered a number of innovations. In the dining room, the electric lighting was controlled by a dozen buttons. The house was heated by both steam and fireplaces.[ii]
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During June 1900, Adolph Wegner was hired to oversee the construction on the mansion. The excavation of the basement began immediately.
In May 1901, Michael J. Scully, of Lexington, was contracted to complete the ornamental plastering and cement work on the new mansion. The contract was worth $8,000. The work was expected to be completed by fall. The projected budget for the mansion was $250,000.[iii]
In January 1902, Haggin and Henry L. Copeland, his architect, arrived from New York to review the work on the mansion. The cost estimate was now $350,000.[iv] In March 1902, the exterior of the mansion was completed, except for painting and decorative work. The interior was still unfinished.[v]
Adolph Wegner, builder of Green Hills, on front steps, circa 1902 <UK>
In April 1902, Haggin arrived in Lexington to inspect the work on the mansion. Haggin ordered extra workers to rush completion by May 1st. One improvement that was of special interest was the wine cellar, which he was overseeing its stocking with wines, brandies and liquors. The newspaper reported “agents are now scouring the Old World in search of brands of rare vintage all of which goes to show that Mr. and Mrs. Haggin intend to entertain here on a large scale.” In addition, Haggin indicated that the mansion would be kept open year round, with a retinue of servants on duty during the winter, just in case he planned on visiting.[vi]
On September 17, 1902, Copeland arrived at Elmendorf to oversee the finishing of the mansion and several construction projects. These projects included the erection of an electric light and ice plant and a new stone residence for the farm manager.[vii]
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Mansion entrance off Ironworks Pike, with lodge <Ambrose>
Lion’s Circle[1], from entrance towards Green Hills, the macadamized road was 100 feet wide <Ambrose>
Construction of foundation and basement, including Haggin’s wine cellar, circa 1901 <UK>
Another construction photograph, 1901 <UK>
Green Hills, circa 1903 <Ambrose>
Front porch of Green Hills, with Corinthian columns and pediment, 1903 <Ambrose>
West side of Green Hills, circa 1903 <Ambrose>
Enlargement of roofline and balustrade
East side of Green Hills, with portico, 1903 <Ambrose>
Enlargement of portico
A pair of Italian marble lions, guarded the front entrance to Green Hills, circa 1902 <UK>
The main entrance hall, with carved walnut paneling, lighting was provided by electric lamps, circa 1902 <UK>
View of the main entrance hall, doorway to the drawing room, circa 1902 <UK>
Drawing Room, with elaborative Fresco work <UK>
Dining Room <UK>
Library / Office <UK>
On Thursday night, October 22, 1902, the Haggins held the first party at Green Hills to dedicate the completed mansion. Over 250 specially invited guests from Central Kentucky dined and danced well into the night. The local newspaper reported:
“At their palatial county home, Green Hills, six miles north of Lexington, Mr. and Mrs. J. B. Haggin entertained last night with one of the handsomest private functions ever given in the south.”
Guest arrived at Elmendorf at the farm entrance, off Paris Pike, where the roadway was lighted by oil lanterns. Guests entered the mansion from the west portico (carriage porch) and were taken by elevator to the second floor. From there, they descended the main stairway into the main entrance hall, where the Haggins and family welcomed the guests to Green Hills.
The reception party included the Haggins, his granddaughters (Countess Festetics de Tolna, Edith Lounsbery and Mabel McAfee), Mrs. C. T. Collins and Miss Collins, of Cincinnati, Mr. and Mrs. James P. Amsden (in-laws), of Versailles, Mr. and Mrs. Neville Moberly (sister-in-law), of Richmond, Miss Sue and Ezza Railey (sister and niece of Versailles), Garvin Thomas, of Louisville, and Ben Ali Haggin, Jr. (grandson) of New York. Mrs. Haggin was dressed in a white satin gown, with red lace.
A reception was held before supper on the first floor of the mansion. At 10:30 pm, a lavish dinner was served in a temporary pavilion, with wooden floor, erected behind the mansion. The dinner was catered by the St. Nicholas Hotel of Cincinnati, who also supplied 60 waiters (one for every four guests). After dinner, the tables were cleared and Colonel Roger D. Williams lead a cotillion dance. The music was supplied by the 20-piece, John C. Weber’s Orchestra of Cincinnati.[viii]
The Haggins set up a special tent for the coachmen to eat supper and wait on their charges. The caterers took over the Leland Hotel for their staff. Several boxcars of provisions were stored on the siding at Muir Station. The floral decorations were supplied by Honaker Florist and the draping by C. F. Brower, both of Lexington.
The mansion was noted in the newspaper accounts, including:
“In the midst of the largest landed estate in the Blue Grass Region of Kentucky where the thousands of undulating acres grow more vernal with each succeeding spring on a commanding eminence that overlooks its lesser neighbors for miles around, the master of these lands had built a mansion of magnificent grandeur – and habitation fit for a king. He had called it Green Hills, and the spot is speaking suggestive of the name.”
“Against a front of giant fluted columns, of massive carved stone and rich plate glass, the sunset of a perfect autumn day cast its splendors, and Green Hills absorbed the glory of the hour. The splendor lingered until the outlines of the palace became dim in the twilight and night overtook the dusk, waiting on the horizon where the sun had been – and then one by one the lights appeared from many windows as if the reflected radiance of the day had become transfixed, and for miles around the lights of Green Hills caught and held many an eye.”
“From the palace to the lodge, a mile away, two long lines of lamps lighted the way – and all was ready for the guests. It was the dedication evening of the Biltmore of Kentucky, and Green Hills was royally attired.”
“The guests were from among the aristocracy of the Blue Grass. They were representative of its chivalry and its beauty and they numbered by the score its proud matrons and gallant sons and princely maidens.”
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The Haggins regularly visited Kentucky. While Green Hills was intended as their summer residence, the Haggins began spending the summer at Bar Harbor or Newport. The Haggins came to Lexington during the spring and late fall.
The newspapers carried a number of front-page stories regarding their visits. In September 1902, the Haggins arrived in Lexington, over the Queen & Crescent Railroad, to attend the fall trotting meet, at the Red Mile. The Haggins remained in Kentucky until the end of October.[ix] In April 1906, the Haggins spent the spring at Green Hills, before returning to New York for the summer.[x] In October 1907, the Haggins attended the Horse Show, in Louisville, staying in a suite of rooms in the Seelbach.[xi]
When traveling to Lexington, the Haggins traveled in style in the Salvator, his 72-foot, private railcar. From New York, they traveled to Cincinnati, where his car was transferred to either the Queen & Crescent or Chesapeake & Ohio Railroad for the final run into Lexington. Along the way, their dinner was prepared by a private chef and served on gold tableware. Occasionally, while waiting in Cincinnati, the Haggins would dine at the St. Nicholas Hotel.
At Lexington, the car was dropped off at the depot on Broadway or at the rear siding to the Phoenix Hotel. Then a switch engine transferred the car around the belt line to the Paris interurban, where it was towed to the farm. At Elmendorf, the Salvator was parked on the farm’s private siding, where a carriage conveyed them to Green Hills. The entire trip would take over 18 hours. When returning to New York, the Haggins would board the Salvator at the farm and reverse the trip.[xii]
While at Green Hills, the Haggins would entertain with a series of parties, suppers and balls. Before his visit, the farm and mansion was prepared for entertainment.
The invited guests would arrive in private carriages or on chartered interurban cars. Later, guests also arrived by motor cars. Guests arriving by the interurban, were greeted at the farm’s station by carriages. The roadways leading to the mansion would be lighted with brilliant red, white and blue electric globes. Ascending the hill, Green Hills would come into view with lights blazing.
The public rooms on the first floor would usually be decorated with bouquets of American Beatty Roses, Mrs. Haggin’s favorite.
Coaching, 1903 <Ambrose>
In October 1908, the Haggins held a ball for 200 guests. The coach barn was converted for supper. However, the supper was moved to the dining room, because of rain. The rear veranda was enclosed by canvas and heated. After supper, the guests danced well into the night to music of the Saxton & Trost’s Orchestra.[xiii]
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Haggin was well known for his hospitality, which he extended to tourists who visited the farm. Every week, the farm had between 200 to 300 visitors, with a special staff on hand to answer questions. Berryman eventually established a visitor’s day one day per week, with a dime charge (which was donated to the local hospitals). The newspaper stated:
“Elmendorf farm, with its half million dollar Green Hills mansion, the residence of its owner, its great barns built on an extensive scale of breeding purposes, its great stallions, which include Salvator, Longstreet, Kinley Mack, Ben Holliday, Waterboy, Watercolor, High Order, Golden Garter, Watercress, Star Ruby and Greenan; its famous mares and its broad fertile blue grass meadows, make it the principal point of interest in Fayette county to all sight seers and visitors.”[xiv]
In June 1904, Elmendorf hosted the local Photographers’ Association at the farm. The association’s members rode a special interurban car along Paris Pike, taking photographs of farms and bluegrass fields. They made a stop at Elmendorf, where they visited the combination barn and photographed the stallions.[xv]
In May 1905, the International Railway Congress was held in Washington, DC. The Cincinnati Southern Railroad offered an excursion to Cincinnati, with a side trip to Lexington to visit the “famous Elmendorf Farm.” The railroad ran a special train to Lexington, where the railroad officials boarded the interurban for the farm. The delegates were entertained with a luncheon (with mint juleps) in one of the large barns, then shown around the farm. The delegates then returned by special train in time for dinner.[xvi]
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In September 1913, Haggin purchased a Packard Berlin No. 2 seven-passenger limousine. The car was painted black, with blue trim. The body was divided into two compartments, the front for the chauffeur and footman and the rear for the passengers. The rear compartment was upholstered in black leather, with walls and top covered by heavy gray cloth. A speaking tube connected the two compartments. The rear was equipped with a silver writing set, with a silver pencil. The top was made of a single sheet of aluminum. Options included electric lighting (including an interior light) and rear windows lowered by a hand crank.[xvii]
Four columns, two sculptured lions and six marble steps
[1] Beginning in 1972, the annual Lexington Ball was held in the Lion’s Circle, near the Ironworks Pike entrance, the night before the Kentucky Derby. Over 400 guests were entertained in Haggin style in a large white tent erected in the circle. As in the past, the marble lions watched over the event. The ball was held in this location for the next twelve years.
[i] Lexington Leader, March 1, 1900, page 5, column 3.
[ii] Lexington Morning Herald, April 21, 1901, Supplement, pages 1-6 and Lexington Leader, July 14, 1901, page 6, columns 4-6 and April 20, 1905, page 9, columns 1-2.
[iii] Lexington Leader, March 31, 1901, page 8, column 1.
[iv] Lexington Herald, January 27, 1902, page 5, column 3.
[v] Lexington Leader, March 24, 1902, page 1, column 7.
[vi] Lexington Leader, April 1, 1902, page 6, column 5 and New York Times, March 31, 1902.
[vii] Lexington Leader, September 18, 1902, page 7, column 3.
[viii] Lexington Leader, October 22, 1902, page 1, column 6 and October 23, 1902, page 6, columns 1-4 and Lexington Morning Herald, October 23, 1902, page 8, columns 1-2 and September 26, 1902, page 10, columns 1-7.
[ix] Lexington Leader, September 14, 1902, page 1, column 5.
[x] Lexington Leader, April 9, 1906, page 1, column 5.
[xi] Lexington Leader, October 4, 1907, page 5, column 3.
[xii] Lexington Herald, June 12, 1904, page 1, column 5, Lexington Herald-Leader, February 6, 1972, section 1, page 2 and columns 1-4 and April 24, 1984, section D, page 2, columns 1-4.
[xiii] Lexington Leader, October 11, 1908, page 10, columns 4-5.
[xiv] Lexington Leader, January 9, 1906, page 6, column 4.
[xv] Lexington Leader, June 16, 1904, page 3, column 3.
[xvi] Lexington Leader, May 17, 1905, page 1, columns 1-3.
[xvii] Lexington Leader, September 11, 1913, page 8, column 4.
